Written by Vic Harradine

Vic Harradine has been teaching wine appreciation for a number of years at Algonquin. An avid wine taster, he samples about four thousand wines a year.

He writes reviews for about two thousand of them in the free wine e-newsletter: www.winecurrent.com which is published every two weeks to coincide with Vintages Releases at the LCBO.  To receive your copy, log onto the winecurrent.com site and subscribe.

You probably have your favourite ‘house’ wine or wines. They’ll still work for the holidays, but here are some suggestions that might move you a bit from those old favourites—one or more might even become your new house wine. They’re selected on four criteria, flavourful, interesting, versatile and offering good value. You can sip them on their own, serve to friends or match them to food.

The numbers within brackets shown after the price are your GPS to stores that stock them—no need make a trip and be disappointed. Go to www.lcbo.com click English or French then punch in the numbers (no brackets) in the ‘Product Name or item #’ window then click ‘Go’. That opens up a screen showing the product name etc. Click on that link. Then click ‘Find Stores’ – it will show you where every bottle in Ontario is located. I just did for the White Port below and it shows the LCBO College Square store has 15 bottles in stock. A pretty neat time saver, eh?

• The first is a Port, but it’s white. It’s crisp, refreshing and simple to make a great spritzer. It also works out to about 85 cents a mixed drink and that includes the club soda. This is a classy welcoming drink allowing you to serve Port for a pittance.

Fonseca ‘White Port’ Non-vintage
DOC Porto, Portugal $13.95 (276816) 20% alcohol
Talk about value—1 ½ ounces of Port mixed with an equal amount of club soda over ice, and you’ve the ingredients for 17 welcoming drinks at your next gathering. Golden yellow in the glass, the aromas and flavours are almonds, sweet honeyed pear and caramel apple. Nicely balanced, it’s a refreshing spritzer—flavourful, festive and downright delicious.

• Here are two white wines that meet all the criteria, pairing especially well with turkey and all the fixings. They’re also wonderful wines to bring along to the party or serve at yours—they’re crowd-pleasers, as well. If you think size matters, take a close look at the Concha y Toro.

Strewn ‘Barrel Aged’ Chardonnay 2007
VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake $12.95 (522730) 12.9% alcohol
Ripe spiced apple aromas open this well-paced well-priced Chardonnay. There’s a bare wisp of oak, it’s generously textured delivering a delectable mouthful of refreshing fruit flavour with yellow peach, green apple and accents of ripe pineapple. It finishes lengthy balanced and delicious. Give it a go with rotisserie-roast chicken-to-go from your local supermarket.

Concha y Toro ‘Frontera’ Chardonnay 2009
Chile $14.95 (465849) 1500mL 13.0% alcohol
There’s big bang for your buck here; a magnum for under $15. When you do the math, it’s less than $7.50 for a regular 750 mL bottle. The quiet aromas of floral and apple introduce this straightforward easy-sipping white. It’s lighter-styled, but doesn’t stint on the flavour—green apple spice and citrus—or overall tasting experience—it’s balanced, crisp and refreshing. A lovely aperitif, it also has the body and flavour to pair well with that turkey.

Wente ‘Morning Fog’ Chardonnay 2008
Livermore Valley-San Francisco Bay, California $16.45 (175430) 13.5% alcohol
From grapes cooled by early morning fog, this showcases balance and complexity. Expressive aromas roll off glass—vanilla, spiced pear and tropical fruit—while surging fruit flavours of nectarine, ripe citrus and delicious apple coat the palate. It’s mid weight, generously textured with seamlessly integrated oak and a lingering delectable finish. A step up in price, but drop-dead gorgeous sipped on its own or gracing your holiday dinner table.

• And here are four reds that you can count on over the holidays that won’t break the bank. You could gift any of them, put on your arm as your date to a party or place them on your holiday dining table.     

Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir 2007
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Canada $16.95 (13904) 13.0% alcohol
Rich and elegant, this top drawer Pinot from the fabulous ’07 vintage opens with complex aromas of wild berry, exotic spice and earthy tones. The palate is treated to wave after wave of well-balanced fruit flavour with ripe pomegranate, tangy cranberry and juicy black raspberry to the fore. Medium bodied and silky smooth, the finish is lengthy and luxurious. Gorgeous sipped on its own; it pairs perfectly with roast turkey, sage dressing and mushroom gravy.

Torres ‘Coronas’ Tempranillo 2006
DO Catalunya, Spain $13.25 (29728) 13.5% alcohol
Alluring aromas of lilac, crushed dark berry and red licorice open this value-packed red—the price-quality balance is tipped well in your favour. Ripe succulent fruit flavours wash over the palate of this medium bodied gem with mulberry, juicy Bing cherry and spiced black currant predominant. This is smooth as satin and über approachable with a lengthy finish that’s balanced, warm and fruity. It’s classy and full of flavour.

Pillitteri Estates Cabernet Merlot 2008
VQA Niagara Peninsula, Canada $12.95 (349191) 13.0% alcohol
From Pillitteri’s Australian winemaker, Dr. Marc Bradshaw, comes a lovely medium-bodied red blend that leads with Cabernet Franc supported by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The aromas are a combination of ripe red fruit and roasted red peppers, providing a great combination of fruit and earthiness. The wine is well structured, but supple with well-integrated tannins. Hints of coffee bean complement the plush fruit on the long smooth finish. Good to go on its own, great with fowl.

La Vieille Ferme 2007
AOC Côtes du Luberon, France $11.95 (263640) 13.5% alcohol
The price-quality balance tips well in your favour—it’s made by the iconic Perrin family who over-deliver flavour and value at every price point. This well-sculpted blend—Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault—is underpinned by ripe tannin and dishes out an amalgam of alluring aromas and flavours with succulent ripe black cherry and black currant predominant. It’s deftly balanced, medium weight and sports a nicely textured lingering finish. Great for gifting or poured alongside a holiday bird.

• New Year’s is all about reflection and celebration. Here are three that sparkle with good taste and froth over with the good life. It’s one of the few affordable pleasures in life. Is there a difference between sparkling wine and Champagne? About $50 a bottle, one wag suggested. There’s also a difference in terroir, how it’s made, flavour, texture and complexity. Champagne also has the allure and magic of being ‘special’ and making a special gift—who wouldn’t want to receive a bottle of Champagne? However, no matter which of these you choose, you’ll capture the spirit of the season.   

Pol Roger ‘Extra Cuvée de Réserve’ Champagne Non-Vintage
AOC Champagne $58.80 (51953) 12.5% alcohol
Sir Winston Churchill’s favourite, one mouthful and this could become your go-to bubbly for over the holidays—it’s certainly full value. Golden-straw coloured, it’s defined by rich flavour, a very small bead of bubbles and lip-smacking crispness without being acidic. Flavours of lemon biscuit, green apple and ripe succulent tree fruit abound carried throughout by generous texture into a balanced finish. Family-owned for generations, it’s one of the most highly regarded and respected Grande Marque houses.

Freixenet Carta Nevada Brut
DO Cava, Spain $12.45 (74757) 12% alcohol
Versatile and affordable, this is an outstanding selection as an aperitif, a food wine and a special occasion bubbly. A muted nose of toast and citrussy zest leads to a lovely burst of pit fruit flavours (white peach and watermelon) in the mouth. This lighter-styled sparkler has a clean finish that would pair well with seafood or chicken appetizers.

Hungaria Grand Cuvée Brut Non-Vintage
Hungary $11.90 (619288) 11.5% alcohol
It's been an LCBO mainstay for years, and I'm taken with the value it offers. Floral and slightly leesy aromas segue a delightful burst of bubbles and flavours on the palate—citrus, peach, apple and pear, while the texture is very smooth. Its medium bodied and slightly 'off-dry'—that means a little sweetness—with enough moderating acidity for good balance. It's quite impressive.

Please remember, always drink in moderation and never drink and drive.

Cheers, Vic Harradine

If you have questions about wine or anything mentioned here, feel free to contact Vic – vic@winecurrent.com