Written by Vic Harradine
Vic Harradine has been teaching wine appreciation for a number of years at Algonquin. An avid wine taster, he samples about four thousand wines a year.
He writes reviews for about two thousand of them in the free wine e-newsletter: www.winecurrent.com which is published every two weeks to coincide with Vintages Releases at the LCBO. To receive your copy, log onto the winecurrent.com site and subscribe.
There are a number of avenues by which you may purchase wine. Ontario wineries will ship their own wine in case lots to your home or office, as will any number of wine agents; and the agents will ship wine from all wineries they represent, regardless of country. There are also a small number of conveniently located Ontario winery retail stores. Finally, nip over the bridge and snag a bottle or two from the SAQ—although, technically, you’re breaking the law if you bring it back to Ontario.
But let’s face it, most of us shop at our friendly local LCBO store, and there’s choice here as well. Not just thousands of wines, but from two distinct areas within the store. The largest section, at the front of the store, is where the LCBO Product wine is displayed and the section further back is where the Vintages Product wine resides. We generally categorize them more simply—expensive at the back, cheap at the front. And often conclude—shop front, avoid back.
You’ll get no argument that averaging out the prices at the front versus the back would show that the wine at the back is more expensive. But the devil is in the details and a closer examination will show wine in the front more expensive than some in the back and vice versa.
The critical difference for the back Vintages section is the LCBO buys relatively small quantities of, generally considered, high-quality wine. Due to the small-quantity purchase, it sells out quite quickly, perhaps in an hour, usually in a week or two. The argument goes that high-quality wine is seldom mass produced. On the other hand, the wine at the front of the store is produced in larger quantities allowing the LCBO to make robust even multiple purchases; your favourite pasta wine is always waiting for you.
There are discerning people who hobnob the back of the store for the same price as many who shop the front. If you’re paying between $12 and $15 for a bottle of wine, there’s an opportunity, every two weeks, to dip your toe into Vintages. Every two weeks, always on Saturday, there are approximately 125 new wines introduced in Vintages. Some are below $15 and worth a punt. The next release is Saturday, April 3, 2010. The following five recommended wines are from that release and all from Spain. You cannot purchase these beforehand, unless the store you shop stocks shelves the previous day—many do.
To receive reviews of 30 or 40 wines from this and every future Vintages release, subscribe to www.winecurrent.com, it’s free. You can Unsubscribe easily, also free.
Always drink in moderation; never drink and drive.
Viña Vilano Verdejo 2008
DO Rueda, Spain $12.95 (162719)
This is refreshing with notes of citrus and herbs. It’s crisp and racy and has the oomph to pair with seafood and pan-seared fish.
Parés Balta Ros de Pacs Cabernet/Merlot Rosé 2009
DOC Penedès, Spain $12.95 (163626)
There are solid fruit flavours—strawberry and citrus—along with a delightful sweet and tang finish. Good to sip on its own, chilled, of course, or with antipasto or a deli plate.
Viñedos Neo ‘Viños de Fabula Vivir’ 2007
DO Ribera del Duero, Spain $12.95 (162693)
Here’s a smooth and mellow red that’s a perfect match for Executive Chef Mark Steele's braised lamb! It’s round and ready to drink, loaded with dark berry flavour.
Campiña de Toro ‘Sabor Real Toro’ 2006
DO Toro, Spain (172932) $13.95
You’ll think that all your Easters have come at once wishing you’d bought more. It’s flavour packed and full of texture.
Bodegas Ateca ‘Old Vines Garnacha de Fuego’ 2008
DO Calatayud, Spain $12.95 162685)
This Grenache-based red is simply lovely with palate-coating dark cherry and berry flavours balanced with good acidity.
Cheers, Vic
If you have questions about wine or anything mentioned here, feel free to contact Vic – vic@winecurrent.com